Step 1: Char the Aromatics

A cast-iron skillet or heavy-bottomed pan is ideal for this process. Place the skillet over medium-high heat and add the garlic and dried chiles. Turn them occasionally until the chiles darken and become fragrant, which should take about one to three minutes. The garlic should develop charred spots within five to seven minutes. Once done, remove the garlic and chiles from the pan. Remove the stems from the chiles, keeping the seeds inside for added heat.

Add the allspice to the skillet and toast for about 30 seconds until fragrant. Then, place the onion wedges cut-side down in the pan and cook until they develop a deep char on both sides, about 15 to 20 minutes total.

Step 2: Blend the Marinade

Once the garlic has cooled slightly, peel away the skins and discard them. Place the peeled garlic, toasted chiles, allspice, charred onions, cinnamon stick, salt, and black pepper in a blender. Secure the lid and remove the center cap to allow steam to escape. Cover the opening with a clean towel and pulse until the mixture is roughly chopped. Add the water and blend until smooth, about one minute. If the marinade is too thick to blend smoothly, add small amounts of water until it reaches a pourable consistency. Let it cool to room temperature before using.

Step 3: Marinate the Chicken

Place the trimmed chicken thighs in a large bowl and pour the marinade over them. Using hands or tongs, ensure that each piece is evenly coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour and up to five hours. It is important not to marinate the chicken overnight, as the charred aromatics can become overly bitter with extended marination.

Step 4: Grill the Chicken

Prepare a charcoal grill by lighting a chimney starter filled with briquettes. Once the coals are covered with gray ash, pour them onto one side of the grill, leaving the other side cooler for indirect heat. Lightly oil the grates.

Remove the chicken from the marinade, allowing excess to drip off while leaving a thin coating on the surface. Discard the remaining marinade. Sprinkle the chicken with salt and place it skin-side down on the hot side of the grill. Cook uncovered, flipping occasionally, for about six minutes until it develops a charred crust. Move the chicken to the cooler side of the grill, cover, and continue cooking until the internal temperature reaches 165°F, about 18 to 24 minutes.

Oven Method

For those without a grill, preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the marinated chicken skin-side up on a foil-lined baking sheet and roast for 25 to 35 minutes, flipping once during cooking. When the thickest part of the chicken registers 165°F, remove it from the oven and let it rest.

Step 5: Rest and Chop the Chicken

Let the cooked chicken rest for about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the bones and chop the meat, including the skin, into small pieces. Keeping the skin enhances the texture and flavor.

Step 6: Assemble the Tacos

Warm the tortillas by placing them directly over a gas flame or in a dry skillet over medium heat, flipping until they develop light charred spots. Fill each tortilla with about ¼ cup of chopped chicken and top with tomatillo salsa cruda.